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Yes, it's a color DMD from colordmd.com Here is my install video. ruclips.net/video/oBZkET9HrCg/видео.htmlsi=SYBzVZurXKO4EYxI

I would start with the pattern transfer board.

Not sure where they got the harness I installed, but I would guess from either Raw Thrills direct or one of their game distributors like Betson or SUZOHAPP.

Hi tdmaxx2288, it all depends on how good the degausser in your TV works. It may take a few cold startups before it goes away, or you may need to use a manual degausser like in my video. You see the degausser only works when you turn the tv on the first time when it's cold. Once it warms up, turning it off and on the degausser will not work because it is no longer cold. Give it some time and if you still have a spot then you need to manually degauss it. If you don't have a degauss coil you can use an old school soldering gun works well, I have even heard people using an old VHS tape eraser. Here is a video showing the soldering gun method. ruclips.net/video/jTbkP9khh2c/видео.htmlsi=IOlxwhEYiL--6d0Z

@@SamsArcadeFix and also when I turned on the geometry grid, I saw that the corner of the curve was tilted downwards, is this also due to magnetization?so can you used degaussing wand?

@@tdmax2288 if there is a metal frame around the edge of the crt the speaker magnet could have magnetized it. if so a degausser coil should fix the problem. You might even try turning the TV around and face another way, the magnetic poles of the Earth will also affect the crt.

@@SamsArcadeFix Thanks for the answer, the TV Loewe Xelos M155 VT, (Phillips Tube, Made in UK), the TV case is plastic, and there are no metal frames that could magnetize.. I left the TV turned off overnight so that the Pazistor could be infected at full power, but the problem did not go away, the lower left corner is still crooked. And this cannot be fixed in the interesting menu. Then I turn on a white or other background, then in that corner you can see a gray spot and also the flickering of the phosphors., I do not know whether it is worth buying a dausser wand, will it help to align the geometry, it is a pity., the TV is like new...

@@SamsArcadeFix ,if I turn the TV 180° to the right (into portrait mode), then a rainbow (colored spots) appears at the bottom of the tube. Is this somehow connected with the fact that I have a gray spot in the bottom corner, it flickers a little, and also the bottom horizontal line is crooked (goes like a wedge), and also periodically a greenish spot appears in the center of the screen, then after some time it gradually goes away. Is the reason magnetization?

Hi Im Daryl. Check and open back cover. Check under the tormat memory unit. There might be a worn tormat or open wire.

As Joe at Joe's Classic Video games would say, besides "it's broke" He always says "Power supply, power supply, power supply". Start at the wall and check for power all the way to the power supply, checking all fuses and if the AC is making it to the power supply, then check the output DC voltages to the game computer. Did the game work for you before and just stopped working or did you get the game already broke?

@@SamsArcadeFix the game worked fine when I bought it. It was still in daily use in the Arcade I bought it from. I arrived it was on and working with money in the coin box. My daughters played it, I then played it, then powered off agreed the sale and we took it all apart. Got it back up north to my arcade. Rebuilt it all. Working fine. Played through using both guns all way through game perfect. Was a long day so powered off and went home for the night. Came in the next morning flicked the switch everything else powered on but not this one. Eventually found out it had blown a fuse where the power lead goes into the cabinet. Replaced the fuse blew again. Replaced again and all fine so may have just been a dud fuse. Anyway after that it all powered on and booted. Played using Red gun on the left and all good. Thought I would check the player two blue gun on the right and shocked to see that it went from being perfectly functional, accurately calibrated the day before to now being totally erratic and not working. Trigger and pedal all ok but gun alignment all crazy. Tried recalibrating but couldn’t. The cursor on screen is flying around everywhere so it seems there is a fault with the gun or a loose connection. I just don’t understand how when it was fine until I powered it off the night before.

It had a bad IC on the game board. Not sure which one because this board I did not have time to troubleshoot myself, so I sent it off to be repaired.

@@SamsArcadeFix ok thank you!

No, A lot of people, myself included refer to this battery damage as acid damage. I believe I corrected myself later in the video. When an alkaline battery leaks its electrolyte (most commonly potassium hydroxide) which is a base and has a pH value above 7. You need an acid to neutralize a base so that's why you use vinegar which is a mild acid. After you neutralize the base, lightly sand the copper traces, make proper repairs, resolder new sockets/ components, the last step is to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the solder flux off the PC board.

The original battery in my unit did not have any protection circuit on the battery. It was just a one cell battery connected directly with the unit. I assumed sense it charges though the usb port it had some type of built in charge circuit. If not, the battery cell is small and if it ever shorted or over charged while it has potential to start a fire, I don't think it would be hot enough to break though the plastic case but would emit toxic smoke which would still be bad. You could always keep anything with a LIPO type battery in a battery safe bag or metal box.

@@SamsArcadeFix Strange mine had a protection circuit on the battery. I also replaced it with a more powerful one.

@@wdl1908 Well these are made in China and probably made by different manufacturers or maybe mine was an early model with a different battery. They probably use whatever they can get the cheapest at the time. I am not surprised🙂 It's such a small battery, I am not worried about it but if it was a larger battery with multiple cells and a high amperage I would add some type of protection.

Good to hear my video helped you fix your game. 🙂

First, what's wrong with the original or are you missing the sound card? If you can find an original or buy a replacement like Pinsound, either way it's gonna be pricy. I would repair the original if possible. I think Pinsound will replace it, but I don't know for sure as I have never used one. www.pinsound.org/machine/star-trek-the-next-generation/#sound-board

ruclips.net/video/oH8_9PnrliA/видео.html

What type of problem are you having?

Yes, the windows version for the PP2 will work on the original programmer. Note, you need a computer with a dedicated parallel port, a parallel port adaptor card will not work. Here is where you can download the program. xtronics.com/memory/updates.html

@SamsArcadeFix thanks for the link. I'm old school & probably have 5 or 6 desktops & a couple laptops around with working parallel ports on them. I'll probably use this old eMachines (Frankenstein really) that I saved from the trash about 10 years ago for the sole purpose of making arcade IDE drives with CHDman.

While I haven't checked in a long time, I would think you can still get parts from any game distributor like Betson, SuzoHapp, Bay-Tek,even Skeeball direct but parts are not cheap. You might even check Ebay. skeeball.com/supershot-home-arcade-basketball/

@@SamsArcadeFix do they offer support? I'm not looking to rebuild the unit. Just want to sell off the good useable parts. I'd like to have the boards tested. I was offered 120 for all the boards.

I don't think they deal in used parts, they only want to sell you new parts. The best way to test your boards would be to find someone with a working game and swap in the boards one at a time. Thats how I would troubleshoot the game on location as we had two side by side. In this video the motor drive board was bad, but it was still under warranty, so they sent me a new board. I don't work that job anymore, so I don't have access to the game. You might consider selling them on Ebay or in the KLOV parts for sale section. forums.arcade-museum.com/forums/trading-videogame-for-sale-parts-one-off.24/@@bigboybuilder77

The solenoid voltage is +24 volts DC.

I assume you watched the video to the end. I made my own adaptors and tested it out on the vector monitors in my games. I just saw a post on Facebook, yesterday I think where Jason said there was an error on the adaptor boards and he had to reorder new boards but now had them but only had the parts to build one to test and was going to send that to Arcade Shop for them to build and sell with the Vector TPG but he had held back a few for people who already had one so you might check with Jason.

@@SamsArcadeFix I did. And you are a pioneer! Jason offered to send me a blank pcb that I can build out. So may go that route. But I would probably do just the ones I need. I don’t have a vectrex or the 6100’s etc.

Jason sent me the new adapter board. It is pretty sweet. But he has no video on it yet to review it. Did you pick one up?

@@troubydoo No I did not as I had already made my own adaptors.

I thought I saw one on Ebay that would turn the right way, but I could be wrong. I'll have to take another look.

It could be the motor driver board. This board produces the power for the motor and has 2 relays which reverses the power to the motor. If the motor only travels in on direction it could be one of the relays unless the main CPU has a problem. Check for cold solder joints at all the connectors. I was lucky as I had two side by side so I could swap the boards to find the problem.

Thanks, all is well, be back at it soon.

I have an old video of the Star Trek test mode but next time I do some G-80 board repairs I'll make an updated video in more detail. ruclips.net/video/rztZOpqzLF0/видео.html